Art and Indigestion

It's been a long couple of days full of traveling and various adventures. For starters, Tommy and I visited Venice and saw the main attraction: the church that was filmed as the outside of the Venice library in Indian Jones and the Last Crusade! I knew it as soon as I saw it. Tommy and I stopped in the square there to have a bite to eat, and I prayed we would see Indy come climbing out of the sewer, but to no avail. I also helped a German woman translate the word "ham" while she was trying to decide which pizza to get her daughter! Hooray for multi-linguality (-lingualism?). That was followed by a quest for St. Mark's Square, a lot of pigeon chasing, ooh-ing and aah-ing, and picture taking.

We got in line to go to the top of the tower at St. Mark's and my ears perked up as the sound of German reached them. I could hear the middle-aged couple behind us speaking in German and spent the remainder of the time in the line debating with myself over whether or not to strike up a conversation. I finally got up the nerve as we were getting in the elevator. As it turned out, they were from Dresden, and we talked about that city and Vienna and how funny the Viennese accent is (they even laughed at my impression of it)! It was a major victory to chalk up on my German-learning fuselage. Funny how much German I managed to speak while in Italy...

Tommy and I proceeded to be appropriately awed by the beauty of the Venice sunset and then to try and take a shortcut back to the train station, ultimately getting lost in the dark, labyrinthine alleyways and canals of the city. We did manage to orient ourselves, occident ourselves, and find our way back (with only a little loss of sanity). We ate at a traditional trattoria, slept soundly, and headed out the next day on an 8-hour train ride through the countryside of nothern Italy and southern Austria (southern Austrian was SPECTACUlAR). I discovered that I really love travelling by train and getting to see all the hamlets, castles, and fortresses that dot the contryside. We even rode through patches of serious falling snow. A few times we were right in the middle of a mini-blizzard and then we would go through a tunnel in a mountainside and emerge a minute later on the other side, blizzard-free. It was wild. I also met and chatted with a Viennese woman headed back home with her daughter. As it turns out, she worked for a film company and had visited New Jersey to film a WWII movie called "Daughters of Vienna" or "Daughters of Austria." More Deutsch success!

Back in Vienna for two days, I got an opportunity to see a traveling friend from back home, recieve my long lost luggage, get a haircut (thank God), meet Michael at the airport, and show him around the city. Michael, Tommy, and I mustered out around four in the morning to get to the airport for our flight at 6:40. The only complication was that I had woken up at around two with a bad stomach ache, which I managed to ignore in order to get back to sleep and which was mildly subdued when we woke up. However, by the time we reached the airport, I felt like udder bilge-water or something else appropriately nasty. I ended up yarking in the WC at the airport, on the tarmac in front of the plane, and, halfway into the flight, in the toilet on the plane. Nothing like following up a week of traveling with a cold with some stomach virus.

The good news was that I manged to stomach some quiche once we got to Paris, and after a long wait in the cafe below our hostel and a good three hour nap (for all of us; we were all exhausted) I felt good enough to visit the Eifel Tower at night, take a few damn beautiful photos if I do say so myself, and miss Megan something fierce.

Today, I felt better, though still not 100%. It rained for a good portion of the day but, as the apparently say, "If the sun shines in Paris, it's shining everywhere." Rain and shaky stomach were not enough to get in our way, however. Tommy, Michael and I saw the Louvre, including Mrs. Mona Lisa, if only from something of a distance due to the vast gaggle of folks crowded around the suprisingly tiny thing. We also saw Notre Dame and failed to find the tomb of Napoleon. We were successful in getting our shoes wet, too. But our spirits were never dampened and we shal march on, somehow. What an interesting vacation this is turning out to be...

So Pretty it Hurts

So as it turns out, my headcold, or whatever it is I've come down with, has been more tenacious than originally believed. It's been somewhat of a rollercoaster, actually. Most mornings, I feel pretty crappy and it tends to get better throughout the day. It really isn't a potent cold, but not feeling 100% while you're on vacation can make it a somewhat uphill battle to enjoy what it is you're doing. It has gotten better from one day to the next, but slowly... with any luck, I'll be back into tip-top shape before the second week kicks in and Michael arrives.

I'm currently broadcasting to you from - up until today - beautiful Florence, Italy. I'm sitting in the back room of a wonderful, albeit slightly sketchy, "internet point" that is full of deck furnature (inside), eight international phone cubicles from which one can hear people shouting in several unidentifiable languages, about ten computers, and a confused Californian looking for a bathroom to compliment his phone calling adventure. This internet place is only the tip of the iceberg, though. It's part of what I like to call "Internet Alley," which has at least 6 "internet points" on it (I've counted). Why did I chose this one? Don't know.

Tommy and I arrived in Florence on Sunday and commenced to visit the town and take several lovely pictures of the buildings along the river during sunset. I have come to the conclusion that the sun loves Italy (most days; it's raining right now). I have taken several satisfyingly awesome photos of both rome and Florence during the sunset... it's something about the architecture; it just looks damn good in evening light.

Apart from heart-crushingly beautiful sunsets, Florence is also home to the Cathedral of St. Maria del Fiore, a GIGANTIC cathedral more or less in the center of town. It's absolutely covered in the most appealing marble artwork I have ever seen (easily my favorite cathedral to date with the possible exception of St. Peter's). It combines white, red, and green marble really well and the sculptures are endlessly complex, though they fit into a great design scheme that is really simple... in other words, awesome. And there's just something about the way the church sits that just makes it look massive. Another neat feature is that the two ends of the transept of this particular cathedral are topped with domes, just like the giant dome covering the center of the nave. It just looks really cool. And the patterns on the floors on the inside... and the way you feel like an ant inside... and... and... okay enough. I love St. Maria del Fiore. There, I said it. Sorry, Megan, I'm leaving you for a cathedral.

And on the second day we journeyed to Pisa by train (only €5, for the win!) to visit good ol' leaning tower and wander around the town. We tried to take the typical photo of me pushing the tower from the lawn, but the freighteningly silly-looking Italian police in little white helms blew whistles at us and threatened to lob both spaghetti and gnocci at us if we didn't stop enjoying ourselves on their lawn. Then Tommy and I ate a Doener because it's been almost 4 days since we've been in a German speaking country, and we really missed the Turkish food. That was followed by wandering, picture taking, another cheap train ride back to Florence, and an opportunity to climb the tower of St. Maria del Fiore (all 414 steps) is two minutes flat in order to enjoy the last few minutes of sunset and take a few gob-smackingly, tear-wrenchingly beautiful pictures of the whole darn city.

Today... ( only about 5 mintues left before I get kicked off) ...not so much fun. We looked for the David, but he was no where to be found. Then we waited in an hour long line for the Ufizi Gallery, which is supposed to contain the Birth of Venus, but in which we were dismayed to discover a distinct lack of any birthing of any goddess of any kind whatsoever. Feeling sick, confused, tired, and well, just plain ridiculous, Tommy and I retreated to this here "internet point" for a little contact with home (also we got delicious ice cream, so all was not for naught). And that's how I came to be here. Hope you enjoyed this installment of Rob's Rambling Run through Rome and other Italian Cities. Tune in next time, when I'll hopefully have my sanity firmly back in place.

Spending the Ides of March in Rome

It seemed like an ill portent when I awoke on the morning of my travels with a sore throat. Things went from bad to worse, of course, when I realized in the airport that didn't need to worry about checking any liquids because I had completely forgotten my toiletry kit! And, finally, as we touched down in Rome and were greeted by the blazing sun, I realized that I had over-packed on layers and under-packed on sunglasses. Of all the times not to have sunglasses...

Still, if those are my problems for this trip, I'm glad I got them out of the way. Right now, I'm coming to you from the internet terminal in the Alissandro Palace Hotel (actually a hostel) in Rome with a quickly retreating sore throat and a head full of the most interesting sights I have seen in a long time (if ever). That said, I have naturally clicked my camera button so many times that I've nearly sprained my index finger.

My friend, Tommy, and I arrived on Thursday around 3:00 and set about to scan the city. We saw the Forum and the Colloseum from a distance and had possibly the best pizza of our lives. Yesterday, through the good graces of my father, Mr. Ring, and the Bard Corporation, Tommy and I were treated to our very own private tour of the Vatican with the very friendly and very knowledgeable Luigi Venditti. We were simply dumbfounded, not only by the sheer vastness and marvel of the Vatican museums, but even more so with Mr. Venditti's encyclopediac knowledge of every inch of the ancent history and art contained within. We spent the better part of four hours with him, meandering first through the endlessly impressive halls of the museums, followed by a visit to Sistine Chapel (which included a private viewing of the "Room of Tears," a place not normally open to the public, and where it is customary for the newly elected Pope to go after Conclave to weep over the death of his predecessor). We were allowed to take pictures of the chapel by the graces of Mr. Venditti, eventhough this is normally forbidden.

Next, he took us to the crypt beneath St. Peter's, where we saw the tombs of each of the previous Popes, including John Paul II (his was very crowded with pilgrims and the like), and of course, the man himself, St. Peter. He then led us behind some roped off area and past a guard something of a hidden staircase underneath a grate where we could see into the cathedral. We then followed him up the stairs and into the cathedral itself. For anyone who has ever seen St. Peter's, you'll know what I mean when I say that it alone is worth the trip to Rome. Only one word can describe it: gargantuan.

After our minds were duely blown there, Mr. Venditti took us outside to St. Peter's square and then proceeded to outdo himself. He lead us over to the left side of the square, toward the private apartments of the Pope. Let me just say that until this point we had seen no Swiss Guard, not so much as a pocket knife. But as soon as he lead us between a few columns and up a flight of apropriately epic stairs, we saw them, one saluting Mr. Venditti (everyone working at the Vatican knew Mr. Venditti) and the other standing stock-still like a Buckingham guard and holding a spear. And, of course, they were wearing silly renaissance uniforms with colors stolen from an old-timey lolli-pop. And yet they still commanded a huge amount of intimidation!

After a brief chat with a guy behind a desk, Mr. Venditti lead us up yet another flight of stairs and into the courtyard of the Papal estates themselves, showing our security clearence to all the Swiss Guards along the way. He then lead us inside the building and up through an elevator, all the while greeting and chatting with every guard, priest, and papal official we saw along the way and giving us an extremely detailed history of the elaborately decorated hallways we were making our way through. Finally, the pièce de résistance, he lead us out onto a balcony of the papal estates where we could look out over St. Peter's Square and Cathedral and the WHOLE OF ROME! At the risk of sounding cheesy, I'll barrel into the following superlative... it was the most beautiful sight I've ever seen... the sun setting over the hills of Rome, the sun blasting out from behind St. Peter's, and no one but me, Tommy, and Mr. Venditti to enjoy the sight! Of course we took a few pictures and stumbled over ourselves thanking Mr. V, but he managed to put it all into perspective when he pointed a few windows down and told us that that was where the Pope slept (these are the windows through which he gives mass blessings).

Okay... with all of that said, I only have 2 minutes and 43 seconds left before I get kicked off the internet here, so I will end with this... we also saw today Santa Maria della Concezione, where the entire crypt was decorated with the actual bones of Capuchin monks... creepiest thing ever (it's superlative day, apparently). More on that later... until next time! Stay tuned for more of Rob's Italian Adventures!

Grüß Gott!

On the eve of my departure to Rome for Easter break, I realized that I had been neglecting my blog since coming to Vienna.  I've been very busy getting settled in for my four-month-long stay, buying the essentials: kitchen utensils, a semester ticket for the Vienna public transportation system, a europe-friendly cell phone, Coheed & Cambria concert tickets, you know, the basics.

 

We started our stay in Freud's city with a brief tour and dinner at the University of Vienna's brewery's restaurant, where we got to meet the staff of our program's various courses (I think this sentence wins for the most possessive phrases).  The fact the the U of V has a brewery is a little ironic considering that Central College, the school through which our program is run, maintains the illusion that it is a dry campus and is in the middle of a fiery debate over the fact that their health office wants to hand out free prophylactics to encourage safe sex.  I blame the Puritans for screwing our country up so much...

 

I apologize for that diatribe.  On with the show!  The basic layout of our courses here in Vienna is as follows, at least as it applies to me: we can take courses through Central College, which hires real-life Viennese professors to teach us in German, but at a pace and vocabulary level that we can handle.  We then have the option to take additional courses through the U of V.  I'm taking an German Literature course with Austrian Alan Alda, who also leads our mandatory Austria in Context course.  He's definitely my favorite so far.  We also have what my friends and I have come to call "Organic Grammar," owing to the way our professor kind of wanders through the class all willy-nilly and hippie-esque.

 

The mammoth tower of the Stephansdom Cathedral.

 

Last weekend I also participated in course about the music of Vienna, more specifically the Vienna School of classical music.  The course took place on Friday and Saturday morning and was, of course all auf Deutsch.  While I could follow along just fine, I was a little frustrated to find that I know exactly bupkis about classical music.  I have resolved heretofore to "creatively acquire" from the int0rnets the complete works of the various Vienna School artists and commence to listening to it!  The course culminated this past Monday with a concert in one of Vienna's many concert halls.  The concert was a performance of string quartet compositions from Haydn, Mozart, and Beethoven.  The concert was absolutely amazing, appropriately mind-blowing, and satisfyingly full of eccentric-looking and frazzle-haired Viennese musicians who kept tempo with their heads, or, in the case of the cellist, their entire bodies.

 

The Habsburg palace in Vienna... possibly my favorite building in the city.

 

I am also taking one course at the University, Love, Desire, and Honor in Medieval Literature.  Now, when I say it was a disaster, I only mean that the professor spoke at 120 mph and at about .02 decibels and that my only saving grace was that I had read Morte D'Arthur auf Englisch before and could therefore figure out that we were talking about Lancelot and Guinevere traipsing about behind poor ol' Arthur's back.  That said, I have no idea what any of the other works we're gonna read are.  Therefore, I'm just going to "audit" this class, meaning that I participate in it, but don't receive a grade or have to take the final exam (phew).  I will be taking some kind of course in English instead... more on that story as it develops.

 

The cathedral at Schottentor looking very good on a fine spring-like day.

 

The final portion of my credit load here in Vienna comes in the form of practicum.  In fact, this past Monday, I took my first steps through the doors of what is effectively a Catholic kindergarten with trepidation.  Over the course of the next semester, it will be my task to exercise my skills as a native speaker of English in teaching little Austrian kids the language of the world.  The kids are between the ages of seven and ten with a few eleven-year-old outliers.  And even though I was afraid they'd eat me alive as a foreigner, it turns out that the school itself is quite international, with a lot of kids from Bosnia, Czechoslovakia, and other such refugee-producing places.  In fact, the kid who I would say spoke the best English comes from somewhere in eastern Africa (not Darfur...).  

 

Very pretty monument on a hill over one of Vienna's many palaces, Schönbrunn.

 

Mostly, I was nervous about my first day because I wasn't really sure what I would be doing with the kids.  The director seems to be a little disorganized and so I was less than informed from the get go... I wasn't sure how long I was going to be with each class or how much English I should use.  It all worked itself out in the end though.  In each class I asked the teacher how much English I should use and then introduced myself to the class and talked about my family, America, and my travels to Europe.  It's good to know that kids are pretty much the same everywhere you go.  When you ask them Wer hat ein Hund? you get about 10 different little hands thrust at you to go along with 10 little voices telling you all about their dogs, the dogs' names, hair color, eccentricities, bowel movements, and so forth, mostly in German with a little English thrown in.  They're very eager to show off how much they know and how much English they can speak and it's amazing how raptly they pay attention.  I'm really looking forward to singing nursery rhymes with them, teaching them vocab with pictures, reading to them, and doing whatever other little things come up.  And, of course, as a nice little cherry on top... a couple of the teachers complimented me on my German!

 

Yes, Vienna even has Italian restaurants with paintings of Mulder, Scully, and Agents J and K if they all had questionable fashion sense.

 

Vienna has kept me busy... busier than Schwäbisch Hall, even though we aren't spending as much time in class and have had virtually no homework so far.  Still, living in a city for the first time with a roommate from Germany (Norbert, he's from good ol' chilly Rostock... more about him in another post) and having to fend for myself in more ways than I ever have before as left little room for missing the small town coziness of my Baden-Würtemburg town.  Austria and Germany definitely are different, though, and so far I can't say which I like better, though I do have a strong feeling I may apply to Vienna for a Fulbright when the time comes.

 

Beate, my tandem partner from Schwäbs, and me.

 

In the meantime, I have to catch a flight in the morning, so I'm going to call it quits here.  A lot of other stuff has gone on, but I'm tired and need to get up early.  I will say this: in my off-time I've still been enraptured, if not completely obsessed with this "geofiction" project of creating an imaginary country and my country's website is now online (http://knabia.rob64.com) and I am now an active participant in the game!  I hope all is well in America (I am a little homesick, I swear).  Now if you'll excuse me, I have a date with the Pope and he doesn't like to be kept waiting...

 

I'm currently at work on my country's currency.  There are just so many graphic design possibilities in geofiction.  At this rate, currency may overtake flags!

Vienna Can Stop Waiting for Me!

This is only the briefest of posts to be made here. I'm sitting in a Viennese internet café because I can't recieve the internet in my dorm until tomorrow. We hit the ground running when we got here and I've been running around getting things in order, buying a semester ticket for the train system, getting sheets for my bed, buying a pay-by-the-minute phone (that I accidentally killed by trying to call my parents... yet another thing I can't get until Monday). Pretty much all of the important stores are closed on Sundays, so I'm sort of on hold for the moment. I have to register with the city first thing tomorrow and meet with my academic advisor about my classes. Hopefully the other half of my luggage, which I sent through the train system, will also have arrived tomorrow... if not, I could have a problem. However, Vienna is beautiful and quite epic, as expected. I wandered around for a good while today and got to see thousands of years of history just pass me by! It's crazy and fun, but both of those things will increase once everything else is in order.